[No. 7]
               
            
            
               
               
               
               27th Augst 1852
               To the Right 
Honble Sir John S Pakington
               
               
                                Hudsons Bay
                     Copy to                        }for inform 29 Nov/52
                                   highRGeograph Soc.
 
                     Copy to Admiralty for [...]
                     Ansd 18 Dec/52. 6
                     mediumminutes mediumto Hudsons Bay Comp 27 Dec/52.
                     
                Her Majestys principal Secretary of State
               For the Colonial Department
               
               Sir,
               
 
            
            
               
               Since I had last the honor of addressing you on the 
22nd Inst
               
               
               I have carried out the project which I have long entertained, of a canoe
               expedition through the 
Canal de Arro, and along the east coast of
               
Vancouver's Island, for the purpose of examining the country and of
               communicating with the native Tribes, who inhabit that part of the
               Colony, and I will now concisely state the
result
 result of my observations, in
               the course of that Journey.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               In our passage through the 
Canal de Arro, we were struck with the extreme incorrectness of 
Arrowsmiths Map of 
Vancouver's Island. The
               line of coast is well delineated, and could be traced upon the map, as
               far as the promontory named "
Cowetchin head," but from that point, all
               resemblance to the coast ceases; the mutlitude of 
Islands forming the
               
Arro Archipelago, which extend as far as, and terminate at "
Cala
                  descanso", being laid down as an integral portion of 
Vancouver's Island,
               whereas the true line of coast runs from 15 to 20 miles west of its
               position as laid down, on that map, the intermediate space being
               occupied by Islands, and channels of various breadths, generally
               navigable, but probably inconvenient for sailing vessels, on account of
               the strong currents
and
 and frequent calms, which occur in those narrow
               waters. A correct survey of those channels will remove many of the
               difficulties, that would at present be experienced by sailing vessels
               navigating those straits, and should Her Majesty's Government, at any
               time direct surveys to be made in this quarter I think the 
Arro
                  Archipelago will be found to have peculiar claims to their attention, as
               there is a prospect of its soon becoming the channel of a very important
               trade.
               
 
            
            
            
            
            
            
               They live in several villages each having a distinct chief, or 
headman, who cannot be said to rule
the
 the community which acknowledges his
               supremacy, as there is no code of laws, nor do the chiefs possess the
               power or means of maintaining a regular government; but their personal
               influence, is nevertheless very great, with their followers. The
               Cowegins are a warlike people mustering about 500 fighting men, and the
               total population is about 2100 Souls.
               
               They were extremely friendly and hospitable to our party, and gave
               us much information in regard to the interior of the country; which by
               their report appears to be well watered, and abounding in extensive
               tracts of arable land.
               
            
            
            
               The Cowegin River rises in 
a Lake within a few hours journey of the
               Salt-water arm of 
Nitinat (
Barclay's Sound) on the west coast of
               
Vancouver's Island, and is navigable for canoes to its
source
 source. Those
               Indians partially cultivate the alluvial Islands near the mouth of 
the
                  River, where we saw many large and well kept fields of potatoes, in a
               very flourishing state, and a number of fine cucumbers which had been
               raised, in the open air, without any particular care.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               About 10 miles north of 
the Cowegin, 
the Chemanis River enters
               the 
Canal de Arro, it is altogether a smaller stream, than the former,
               and is navigable to a short distance only from the coast. It is
               inhabited by a branch of the Cowegin Tribe, whom we did not see.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               As we proceeded north from 
the Cowegin River, a complete change
               was observed in the physical character of the country, the primitive and
               transition rocks of the 
Victoria District, being replaced by the
               
sandstone formations; in some places
falling
 falling with a gentle slope, in
               others presenting precipitous cliffs towards the sea.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               The 
Promotory of 
Cala Descanso is the northern point of the
               
Arro Archipelago, beyond which is 
the Inlet of Wentuhuysen, to which
               point my attention was particularly attracted, through a report of coal
               having been seen by the Indians in 
that vicinity. These people are
               called "Nanymo", and speak nearly the same language, but have not the
               reputation of being either so numerous or warlike in their habits, as
               the Cowegin Tribe.
               
 
            
            
            
               We entered into immediate communication and found them very
               friendly and disposed to give every information, we desired, in regard
               to all matters concerning their own affairs, and the country which they
               inhabit.
               
            
            
            
               They live chiefly by fishing, and
also
 also grow large quantities of
               potatoes, in fields which they have brought into cultivation near their
               villages. Those are built chiefly on a river, named "
Nanymo" after the
               Tribe, which falls into the Inlet, and is navigable for Canoes to the
               distance of 40 miles from the sea coast. Food is cheap and abundant,
               and we were plentifully supplied with fresh salmon, and excellent
               potatoes during our stay there.
               
               
               The reports concerning the existence of coal in that place,
               were I rejoice to say, not unfounded; as the Indians pointed out, three
               beds, cropping out in different parts of the Inlet; and they also
               reported that several other beds, occurred on the coast, and in the
               interior of the country which we did not see. One of those beds
               measured 57 3/4 inches in depth, of clean coal, and 
it was impossible to
                  repress a feeling of exultation inbeholding beholding, so huge a mass of mineral
                  wealth, so singularly brought to light by the hand of nature, as if for
                  the purpose of inviting human enterprise, at a season when coal is a
                  desideratum in the Pacific, and the discovery can hardly fail to be of
                  signal advantage to the Colony.
 beholding, so huge a mass of mineral
                  wealth, so singularly brought to light by the hand of nature, as if for
                  the purpose of inviting human enterprise, at a season when coal is a
                  desideratum in the Pacific, and the discovery can hardly fail to be of
                  signal advantage to the Colony. The two other seams which we examined,
               were about 3/4 of a mile distant from the former, and measured
               respectively 3 inches and 20 inches in depth, and are valuable cheifly
               as indicating the direction of the beds.
               
 
            
            
            
               There is every reason to believe from the appearance of the
               country, and its geological phenomena, that 
Vancouvers' Island about
               
Wentuhuysen Inlet, is one vast coal field, and if that conjecture be
               correct the progress of the Colony, will be rapid and prosperous;
               notwithstanding the many adverse circumstances, which have hitherto
               retarded the development of its resources.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               That consideration induces me to offer a few remarks on the
               navigation of the Coast, between 
Victoria and 
Wentuhuysen Inlet. The
               shortest and most direct route between those points, is through the
               
Canal de Arro, a part of the coast of which little is known, and judging
               from the maps in my possession, which has never been correctly surveyed.
               Merchant vessels are therefore deterred from taking that route and
               follow the circuitous channel explored by "
Vancouver" in the year 1795,
               which greatly prolongs the voyage, making the difference of nearly a
               week, in point of time, on a short run of 140 miles.
               
 
            
            
            
               It is therefore of the very greatest importance to the trade of
               this colony that the 
Canal de Arro, should be explored, and a correct
               survey prepared as soon as possible, shewing the
soundings
 soundings, shoals and
               anchorages where ships may bring to, in calms, or during the continuance
               of adverse winds; and I beg most earnestly to recommend that measure to
               your consideration; especially as Her Majestys Government, would thereby
               render an essential service not only to this Colony, but to the general
               interests of trade and navigation.
               
               
               Our excursion did not extend beyond 
the Inlet of Wentuhuysen,
               from whence we commenced our return to 
Victoria, after distributing small presents to the chiefs of the various Tribes, with which
               they
               appeared highly satisfied.
               
 
            
            
            
               
               In the course of that journey we observed traces of iron
               stone, in several parts of the coast, and we also procured a rich
               specimen of Copper ore, found in a distant part of 
Vancouvers Island,
               which will be hereafter examined.
               
 
            
             
            
            
            
               
               The Hudsons Bay Company's Schooner "
Cadboro" lately visited
               the coal district in 
Wentuhuysen Inlet, and succeeded in procuring, with
               the assistance of Indians, about 50 Tons of Coal, in one day. The
               harbour is safe and accessible to vessels of any class, and the coal is
               within 2 cables length of the anchorage, so that every circumstance
               connected with this valuable discovery is suggestive of success.
               
 
            
            
            
               The Hudsons Bay Company have also sent a small body of Miners to
               examine the coal beds and to commence immediate operations there.
               
            
            
            
               
               Her Majesty's ship "
Thetis" arrived at 
Esquimalt, on the
               
22nd Inst direct from 
Queen Charlottes Island, and I believe
               
Captain Kupar has orders from the Commander in Chief to remain
               on this coast, till the month of 
January next; chiefly with the view of
               guarding the Ports of 
Queen  Charlotte's Charlottes Island
Charlottes Island. The gold diggings in
               that quarter have not been productive this season, which has not however
               altered the general opinion entertained as to its wealth in the precious
               metals; the Adventurers ascribing their late want of success simply to
               the circumstance of the true beds not having been discovered.
               
 
            
            
            
               Fine specimens of lead and copper ore, have also been procured on
               
Queen Charlottes Island, which, in a commercial view, gives it an
               additional value.
               
               I have the honor to be
               Sir
               Your most obt hum
ble Ser
mediumvant
               James Douglas
               Governor
               
               
               Minutes by CO staff
               
                
                  
                  
                     Mr Merivale:
                     This is, I think, the most favorable report the 
Govt have 
recd
                     concerning the products of 
VanCouvers Isld & 
Queen Charlotte Island.
                     The Governor, who is also Agent, or Factor to the H.B.C
o will, in all
                     probability have 
‸given his 
‸other Employers the same information as he
                     has done to the 
Govt but lest he should not have been so
                     communicative to the C
o perhaps a copy of this 
desph had better be
                     sent to them.
                     
 
                  
                  
                  
                     Send copy also to Admiralty, and Geographical Society; and Land
                     Bd.
                     
                  
                  
                  
                     Shew this to 
Mr Arrowsmith, who has, of course, had
 
 
                     
                         10199. Vancouver's Island
                                /52
                           
                      very limited
                     means of acquiring geographical knowledge concerning the part of the
                     world explored by 
Governor Douglas.
                     
                     It appears to me that the Company ought to survey the rivers, &
                     places mentioned in this Despatch as they will derive 
all the principal
                     advantage from correct information in the river & sea Navigation: but
                     if they will not, or ought not to undertake this service then I think
                     for the sake of British interests, & the extension of Commerce in a
                     quarter of the Globe which at no distant time will be of importance 
of to
                     the Mother Country the Admiralty should be desired to make the

 Survey.
                     
                  
                  
                     I do not think the attention of the 
Govt of this country of this country has
                     been sufficiently directed to the fact of the very great importance, of
                     which the possession of 
Queen Charlottes & 
Vancouvers islands may have
                     to this country.
                     
                     Whatever be the event of the rumoured 
[...] and partially proved,
                     
                     discovery of gold in the former—the possession of coal in '
Vancouvers
                        island'—a solitary instance along the long line of coast of the two
                     Americas (as far as we have yet discovered), together with its favorable
                     position as regards 
Pt Francisco & the whole Western coast of N America
                     ought to make it the centre of the Pacific commerce.
                     
 
               
               
                
                  
                  
                     Communicate as proposed by 
Mr Blackwood, & I think a suggestion
                     should be made to the Admiralty as to surveying the navigation.
                     
 
            
            
               Other documents included in the file
               
               
                   
                     
                     
                        Draft, Colonial Office to Chairman of the Hudsons Bay Company, 27
                           November 1852, forwarding copy of the despatch.
                        
                     
                     Minutes by CO staff
                     
                     
                        
                        
                           Similar letter to the President of the Royal Geographical Society.
                           
                        
                        
                         
                      
                   
               
                
            
            
            
            
               Other documents included in the file
               
               
               
                   
                     
                     
                        Draft, Colonial Office to 
Hamilton, Admiralty, 
27 November
                           1852, forwarding copy of the despatch for consideration.
                        
                     Minutes by CO staff
                     
                     
                        
                        
                           (I am to speak to 
Sir J. Pakington shortly about printing any of
                           these papers for Parliament, at least so much as relates to
                           
Q Ch. Id.)
                           
 
                      
                   
               
               
                
            
            
            
               Other documents included in the file
               
               
               
               
                
                  
                  
                     Draft, Colonial Office to 
Barclay, Hudson's Bay Company,
                     
27 December 1852, forwarding copy of the Admiralty letter respecting
                     possible survey and advising of recent instructions to 
Douglas on the
                     subject.
                     
 
            
            
            
            
            
            
            
            
            
               
               
                  People in this document
                  
                        Arrowsmith, John
                        
                  
                        Barclay, Doctor Archibaldus
                  
                        Blackwood, Arthur Johnstone
                  
                        Cuffe, 3rd Earl of Desart John Otway O'Conner
                        
                  
                        Douglas, Sir James
                  
                        Hamilton,  William Alexander Baille
                        
                  Jadis, Vane
                  Kuper, Captain Augustus L.
                  Merivale, Herman
                  Pakington, Captain John Somerset
                  
                        Vancouver, Captain  George
                        
                
               
                  Vessels in this document
                  Cadboro, 1824-1860
                  HMS Thetis, 1846-55
                
               
                  Places in this document
                  Barkley Sound
                  Chemainus River
                  Cowichan Head
                  Cowichan Lake
                  Cowichan Region
                  Cowichan River
                  Descanso Bay
                  Esquimalt
                  Gulf Islands
                  Haida Gwaii
                  Haro Strait
                  Nanaimo
                  Nanaimo Harbour
                  Nanaimo River
                  Nitinat
                  San Francisco
                  Vancouver Island
                  Victoria